Editor-in-Chief's Column
Quamrul Ahsan, Ph.D

editorinchief@cottonbangladesh.com


 

State of Bangladesh Textile and Cotton Industry

 

 

AThis week's release of 'October Supply and Demand' report by the USDA was like a breath of fresh air for the Bangladesh spinning industry. However, the wound inflicted earlier, right after the historical cotton tsunami that swept through the cotton and spinning industry, was so deep that this small ray of hope could barely bring back the optimism to the industry. The high-priced contracts worth USD 500m are still haunting the spinners, which the industry analysts believe will last a lot longer than expected.

But looking at the industry from a holistic perspective, Bangladesh seems to be doing fairly well. The Apparel export is showing a consistent and robust growth and has reached an all time high of USD 17.9 billion during 2010-2011. This figure is unprecedented and demonstrates an unshakeable and robust strength of the Apparel industry. It is true that this figure largely reflects the rise in apparel value in dollar terms. Nevertheless, the volume of Apparel export has also increased.

The real bad news, though, comes from the backward linkage industry, especially the Spinning industry. After passing through two rewarding and successful seasons, the later part of 2010-11 has been a nightmare for the spinning industry, when the industry watched a painful slide in cotton price from its historic high of US $2.4/lb (C&F Chittagong) in March-April 2011 to an extreme-low at USD 1.2/lb in just about five months. This steep decline in cotton price left the majority of spinners in turmoil, wondering what to do with the high priced contracts signed earlier. The situation has even aggravated due to low yarn market coupled with influx of cheap yarns from international markets, mainly from India and Pakistan, a phenomena which is widely seen as the effect of European Union's decision to adopt an one-step rule-of-origin policy.

A gradual decline in price would have given reasonable breathing time to spinners to repositioning themselves with the market force, but unfortunately that was not the case. Therefore, a more scientific approach could have been taken to foresee and manage this unexpected crisis. A professional team of risk managers could be instrumental to avert this kind of crisis. Moreover, continued investments by spinners in various portfolios, which had happened after the last two successful seasons should have been carefully reviewed by the professional risk management team, before they ended-up in a liquidity crisis. The liquidity crisis coupled with the adverse market move put them in a vulnerable position to stomach the market differences they endured in recent price falls.

But of course there are other stakeholders in this complicated textile equations, who would sigh with relief with this bearish news from the USDA. These are millions of poor weavers who were badly beaten by the price hike during the last two seasons. Without having any access to credits, these weavers helplessly witnessed two bitter seasons that chewed-up virtually all their cash and they were left wondering how to replace their high priced yarns stocks with little or no money before selling their woven products often with modest or no profit.

The Government has of course had a responsibility to strike a balance and make sure all the stakeholders are well protected. A limited access of cheaper foreign yarns would help revive the spinning industry but that may prove otherwise counterproductive for poor weavers and the exportable Apparel industry. A balanced approach is always welcome, as a healthy textile and cotton industry cannot grow or survive, depending on foreign sourcing of yarns. A value addition to the entire value chain is vital for an industry and economy. Therefore, a careful review of policy balancing the interest of all the stakeholders would be necessary to develop a robust cotton and textile industry that would only strive to earn the much needed foreign revenues. ¨

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